Swimming With Whales in Moorea: It Took Three Tries, and It Was Worth It

All of a sudden there was this huge figure in front of me. Like it magically appeared. It lasted a split second that felt like hours. Then, I watched him gracefully glide away. Down, then out, onto his next destination. This was the moment. Why I came. To swim with whales in Moorea.

In all, it was probably a handful of seconds, maybe a minute if you add up both drops. But it was one magical minute. That was my first look at a humpback whale underwater, and it took me three tries to get it. I went to Moorea to swim with whales and to have a great girls trip. The first two tries, the ocean said no. The seas were rough, the wind was gusty, and there wasn’t a spout in sight. The third time, we saw whales everywhere. 

That’s the thing with Mother Nature. You make a plan, and she laughs. This is their home. You’re a guest. Nothing is guaranteed, but with a little preparation you can improve your odds of being graced with the presence of these beauties. If you’re thinking about trying to swim with whales in Moorea, here’s everything I learned, including the parts nobody puts on the booking page.

Moorea blends excitement in the water with relaxation on land. For more ideas by adventure style, see my adventure travel guide. ->

An island getaway is a great girls trip. For a range of other options near and far, take a look at my girls trips guide. -> 

TABLE OF CONTENTS

What Swimming With Whales in Moorea Is Really Like

The key thing to remember is you don’t find the whales. They decide whether to find you. And even if they do find you, the conditions of the sea, the weather, and the whales themselves determine whether it’s safe for a swim.

If you go with a reputable provider, they’ll make that call for you. They’ll also outfit you with either a life vest or wetsuit, and brief you on the whales, what to do in the water, and how the group positions itself to protect the whales and you. They’ll also do a shark briefing, as oceanic whitetip sharks are out and about and are very ‘curious’ about humans. That added an interesting extra element I hadn’t planned on. 

Boats differ, guides differ, but one thing they all have in common is that you head out to sea and watch the horizon closely until you (hopefully) see signs of whales. For me, that took three tries.

Attempt 1 – Rough Seas and No Whales 

It was our first full day on Moorea, and we set out in a smaller boat. The wind was wind-ing, the swells were swelling, and we were thinking, are we really going to drop into this? So much so that I wore a life vest over my wetsuit for double duty. 

We looked high. We looked low. We bounced. We got soaked. Unfortunately, the whales were not whaling. Of course they were, but just not with us. A guide mentioned they had headed toward Tahiti for the day. I guess we all need a staycation now and again. 

We were momentarily excited about swimming with a pod of pilot whales, but the guide said the seas were too rough and there were too many sharks around them, and it wouldn’t be safe. So, we pivoted to the lagoon for peaceful snorkeling with turtles, rays, and blacktip reef sharks (who are not at all ‘curious’ about humans).

On our way back, a pod of spinner dolphins put on a show. They seemed to say, pull back and look at the big picture. You’re here, with us, with kindreds. It is still a glorious day. And a glorious day it was. 

The Day We Skipped

We originally planned a whale swim the next day, but canceled it to have a full day of hiking and exploring the island. While I’m not sad we had the day, we did hear later that it was a great whale day, with everyone getting in the water. That’s whale swimming for you; there’s no way to tell what will happen. And it’s exactly why I’d book more than one swim on any trip. Luckily, we had two more tries left.

Attempt 2 – The One We Knew Was It (It Wasn’t) 

On our second attempt, we had a feeling this was it. The energy was better, and the seas looked calmer (though the wind was still kicking up). We had our briefing, set out searching and alas, no luck. Our captain mentioned the whales were being seen on the west side, but the seas were again too rough to safely take us out there. I appreciated their concern for us, since getting hurt wouldn’t be worth it, no matter how much we wanted to swim with whales in Moorea.

Our guide said the season had been odd. Whales arrived late, fewer came, and more were on the move instead of resting. Even the weather was off, with rain before the rainy season and wind after the windy season. A bummer this was our week, but such is life.

With no whales, we went to a turtle sanctuary instead, which turned out to be good practice for dropping into deep water (one of the things I was slightly nervous about). 

You don’t find the whales. They decide whether to find you.

Attempt 3 – The Morning It All Happened

Our third and final attempt on Moorea was here (we had a backup booked on Tahiti but were hopeful we didn’t have to use it). This was a morning trip instead of an afternoon one. The seas were the calmest we’d seen, and the captain and guide were so kind. But honestly, by then I’d given up on seeing them and figured it’d just be a nice boat ride. 

Spinner dolphins escorted us out of the bay, and wouldn’t you know it? Almost immediately, there was a whale. We waited for the 7:30am start (no swimming before then), with only us and one other boat. This was with Koa Boat Tour, and Mel and “Moana” were lovely.

We learned this was a singing male (only the males sing). This was it, we were going in! We dropped as silently as we could into the water, swam hard in the direction of the whale, and were surrounded by his songs. We never saw him, but we did see a silky shark checking us out from afar. It wanted nothing to do with us (thank goodness).

After that, we saw whales EVERYWHERE. Spout here, fin there, another spout, another fin. It was like they all returned from wherever they were. You’d think that would mean we had drops galore, but not so. Our guide and captain carefully assessed each situation, and several weren’t safe. We saw a male escort fighting with a mom while her calf was close by, and we were worried the calf would get hurt. As if that wasn’t bad enough, three more males headed their way to join in. The crew worried it would turn into a heat run that could hurt the calf, so we moved on, hoping the calf and mother made it out ok. 

The Moment of Truth

We then saw a sleeping pair and were awaiting our turn with them, but they were woken up by two more whales swimming by, so it wasn’t safe to drop in. We saw amazing rare encounters, but no swims just yet. 

Then the moment came. A male was swimming right along with us, so we moved ahead of him, keeping a safe distance.  We had to drop in fast to catch a glimpse of him swimming at speed. We slid in, swam as fast as we could, and bam, there he was right in front of us. He dove down below us, almost like he was floating. We watched him swim on by, in awe of what we’d just seen.

We hopped back on the boat but didn’t relax, as we had another drop coming. Back in fast, swimming like mad, looking around to see what would come out of the deep blue. Out of the corner of my eye I saw some white, and when I looked down, we were floating above a giant of the sea. Massive below us, he swam gracefully away, knowing we were there and not bothered at all.

Back on the boat, I was at peace. This is why I came. I thanked Nemetona, Yemanya, Sedna, my guides, and the universe for the gift we had been given. An experience I won’t ever forget. 

We celebrated with a seaside lunch with rays and sharks (the safe kind) swimming around. Feeling fulfilled, exhausted, and still wondering if it was all real.

The Rules for Swimming With Humpback Whales in Moorea (and Why They Help) 

French Polynesia has strict rules about swimming with whales. The rules are why this works, for the whales and for us. Here’s a look at them.

When to Swim With Whales in French Polynesia

The key to swimming with whales in Moorea is to book inside the season, then give yourself more than one shot.  July 20 to November 20 is the legal season. Operators say the strongest activity runs mid-August to mid-October. I went in early October. Since the whales arrived late this year, early October should have been prime time, but you just never know. 

We originally had a whale swim booked every day, but swapped a couple out  to see other parts of the island. If you’re committed to getting in the water every day, I’d consider an operator that you can book for the week.

Moorea or Tahiti for swimming with whales?

We had a Tahiti swim booked for our last day and canceled it. We heard mixed feedback on Tahiti, some saying it’s better because it’s quieter, while others said Tahiti’s water is rougher and sightings are less common. After a perfect morning in Moorea, we decided to to end on a high. 

Then I watched spouts right off the black sand beach at Tahiti Pearl Beach Resort, so a little part of me wonders. Should I have gone for it? I’ll never know. My take is still to base yourself in Moorea for the swims, and treat Tahiti as a bonus if you have a spare day. 

How to Book a Whale Swim in Moorea: What I’d Do Differently

If I did it all over again (and I may just do that next year), there are some things I’d repeat, and some I’d do differently. 

• Book early! Our trip came together fairly late (only about a month out), so several tours and hotels were already booked. We were lucky to get any at all, but the early bird gets the best bookings.

• Book multiple swims with different providers. One of ours had boat trouble, and we’d booked three swims with him. We ended up with a last-minute fallback that was smaller, but that was a lucky get thanks to the original captain contacting the boat community for us.
• On that note, talk with the operators. If they are sold out, ask who they recommend. It’s a tight-knit community and they can help connect you to reputable and respectful teams.

• Morning tours get first priority on whales (you may wait on the boat until 7:30 like we did). Operators say morning vs. afternoon doesn’t change your odds, but our morning was the calmest sea of the week. If you can, book at least one am sailing.

• Pick bigger boats with covers for rough days and strong sun.

• Choose providers that include wetsuits, or bring your own. If you’re paying $30 to rent each time and you go 3-4 times, you might as well buy your own. While the water is warm, you can get cold easily when you’re in for awhile, and when you’re back on the boat getting hit with the wind. My friend went with and without, and said the wetsuit made a huge difference (I’m a weather wimp so had my wetsuit on the whole time).

Consider a week-long expedition, where they take the same group out every day. There is something about the camaraderie and trust among the group that enhances the experience. While I don’t know if I’d want full days on the water, the ones that do half days each day could be a nice balance.

Koa Boat Tour and Moorea Ocean Riders. I heard rave reviews about other operators, like Kahaia, so there are other options, but definitely read reviews.

What a Moorea Whale Swim Trip Costs 

Swimming with whales in Moorea costs about $250 to $315 per person per swim in 2026 for a shared tour, but you can also rent a private boat for a half day for around $2000. I’d budget for at least two or three swims, since sightings aren’t guaranteed.

Honestly, the whales are the cheap part. Flights, accommodations, and eating out add up. This is a potentially once-in-a-lifetime splurge trip, so it’s worth it.

If you’re looking at where to save, put the money into extra swim days, not a fancier room. Also consider grocery store stops. We did this and only ate out about once a day. Had we been more budget-conscious we could have done grocery only, but we wanted to enjoy the local island flavors and experiences beyond the sea.

Do You Need to Be a Strong Swimmer to Swim With Whales?

If you do get lucky enough to go in for a drop, there are several things to consider. You need to be comfortable in the open water, without being able to see the bottom. You have to be able to swim, and be ok with heavy swells and choppy seas. 

And you must be able to swim at least 100 yards hard at a time (boats have to stay 100 meters back). You could do this 5 or 6 times in one outing, so it’s important to feel confident in the water and keep up with the group, both to see the whale and for your own safety.

Does that mean you have to be an ultra athlete? No. You just need to be relatively fit and nimble, the same baseline I talk about in my guide to adventure travel for women. I was nervous and trained beforehand, but honestly, I would have been ok without it. Flotation is required, so that keeps you at the top of the water, and while some swims are slow, some are fast. Luckily, if the whale moves on, the boat can pick you up, so you’re only swimming one way. This isn’t the case if the whale is stationary, so you do have to be prepared to swim both ways. 

Swimming in the deep-water drop takes getting used to, as you are surrounded by deep blue. The color is amazing, but you’re not sure what can pop out. Sharks are out there, as are other sea life. They see you before you see them. But guides brief you and are on alert. My lagoon and turtle sanctuary snorkels were good practice, so build one into your trip first.

What to Pack for Whale Swimming

The good news is Moorea is very casual, so you can pack light. If it weren’t for my wetsuit and snorkel gear, I would have done a carry-on size. 

On that note, bring your own 3mm wetsuit (it also meets the flotation rule), mask, snorkel, and fins; a GoPro; reef-safe sunscreen; a rash guard; and a dry bag. And don’t forget the insect repellent. I came home with four or five huge welts from mosquito bites!

Clothes-wise, stick to cover-ups, shorts, tanks, and rashguards. A sundress for evening is optional, as is makeup (mine wasn’t touched the entire time I was there). Grab my free 4-3-1 packing checklist.

Where to Stay, Eat, and Get Around Between Whale Swims

If you rent a car and stock the fridge, Moorea is easy.

Getting Around

A rental car is mandatory (taxis are scarce and the bus runs on its own schedule). PS – Hertz is not at the ferry. We walked 15 minutes with our luggage and may have been mistaken for bougie bohemian backpackers. Alas, it was a nice way to see our first glimpse of the island. Good news is it was right next to the market for supplies.

Tahiti on Either End

If you land late, stay one night near Papeete. We used Hotel Tahiti Nui (a taxi from the airport was about $35). I’d recommend it for convenience and being close to the market and the ferry, not for relaxing. Then explore the market in the morning, and walk to the ferry. No need to reserve tickets unless you have a car.

If we had flown in earlier, I’d consider renting the car at Tahiti airport and taking it on the ferry, or even flying straight from Tahiti to Moorea to skip the overnight stopover. Cars are allowed on the ferry, but reserve the car spot ahead (about $85). It just depends on flight times and connections.

On the way home, a last night at a resort beats killing a day at the airport. Taxis take patience, or better yet, pre-book ahead (ours was a hectic scramble, about $40). I’d planned a car to loop Tahiti and see the waterfalls, but after a week as the only driver, I relaxed instead. That loop is on my list for next time.

Where We Stayed

We stayed at Moorea Sunset Beach bungalows, a great location on the west side, with an amazing snorkel reef right in front.

Our last night was at Tahiti Pearl Beach Resort where we enjoyed the black sand beach, pool and spa before a 10pm flight. We even caught some whale spouts saying hello, and perhaps the best sunset of the trip. It was an amazing end to the week.

Where We Ate

Surprisingly, Moorea has some great food options for a small island (you can drive around the island in a morning, and there are no stoplights). Some of our faves were Casa Vincenzo (pizza like Italy, so good we went twice); Restaurant La Grande Voile (crave-worthy shrimp; closed the second time we tried to go); Taahere Beach House Snack (fresh tuna with rays and sharks below); and Restaurant Tiahura / Chez Irène (lovely meal and service). We have a list of others we didn’t have time to try, so we’ll save those for next time.

Between Whale Swims

We got in some hiking with the Three Pines hike (Col des Trois Pinus), starting from the Belvédère Lookout. It was muddy as we crossed little streams with cute lizards everywhere, and we were rewarded with a swing at the top (bring a change of clothes if you want the “swing shot”). 

After our hike, we walked past the pineapple fields and onto Ta’ahiamanu public beach for amazing snorkeling, a sunset, and a surprise visit by the beach’s famous pig. Why go to the Bahamas to swim with pigs when you can do it in Moorea? Our own beach near the bungalow (Les Tipaniers area) was perfect for easy snorkels with your own gear. Temae Beach was gorgeous, but windy with a strong current the day we went, so I stayed ashore. 

In Tahiti we checked out the Marché de Papeete (fresh flowers, fresh bread, and fresh air), and Tahiti Pearl is right by the Belvédère du Tahara’a lookout for one last glimpse of the islands.

Other Places I’ve Swum With Wild Animals

If this is your kind of trip, here’s where else to go.

• Sea lions in the Galápagos, with a baby sea lion copying my every twirl →
• Wild dusky dolphins in Kaikōura, New Zealand, so social, so curious →
• San Diego is my hometown, where you can snorkel with leopard sharks, sea lions, fish and more →
• Want more trips like these? Start with my adventure travel guide  →

Why I’d Plan This Trip With an Advisor

Whale swims reward the right timing, the right operators, and a backup plan. Matching dates to the season and stacking swim days across operators takes time. Organizing the ferry, car, and island logistics takes effort. Picking the other French Polynesian islands that fit you (beyond the Bora Bora resort bubble) takes know-how. I spent days researching and putting this trip together. 

I can put that to good use for your trip, so all you have to do is dream of swimming with whales. Ready to start planning? Let’s talk.

FAQs

Conclusion

I’m still pinching myself that I actually swam with whales in Moorea. Would I go again? Yes. Would I book more whale swims? In a heartbeat. Next time I want to see more of French Polynesia, and the islands beyond the resorts. But that morning off Moorea, swimming as fast as I could and seeing a whale glide beneath me, is the one I’ll replay forever. I hope it inspires an adventure of your own. 

Wherever you go, however you do it, I want you to have a trip to remember. 

Happy travels, kindreds!

RELATED LINKS

Ready to plan more adventures? 

• Moorea gives you excitement in the water and relaxation on land. For more ideas by adventure style, see my adventure travel guide.
• Destination Inspiration:
  • Sailing the Croatian Islands with My Mom
  • A Week in the Galapagos
  • 3 Weeks on New Zealand’s South Island
  • Hiking the Amalfi Coast
  • A Perfect Girls Weekend in San Diego
• Who to Go With:
  • Solo Female Travel Guide
  • Girls Trip Guide
  • Traveling with My Mom 
  • First Group Tour Tips – reasons to take a group trip
  • What Turning 50 Taught Me About Travel
• Planning Tips:
  • How to plan a week-long international trip →
  • How to plan a multi-week international trip →
  • Do you actually need a travel advisor for solo travel? →
• Active Travel Packing List – Take a look at my 431 packing system that works anywhere – get your free guide here

HELPFUL LINKS

Ready to book? Here are my go-to resources for flights, packing, planning, and staying connected:

• Work With Me
  • Need help planning your 2026 travel? Contact me here for personalized itinerary assistance!
  • Want more information on the benefits of using a travel advisor? Learn more here
• Planning Resources
  • Moorea Moana Tours published code of conduct
  • Koa Boat Tour
  • Moorea Ocean Riders
  • Kahaia Tours Moorea
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